Efficacy of topical vitamin C in melasma and photoaging: A systematic review

Correia G

Published in Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology

Methodology

Systematic review of prospective randomised controlled trials of topically applied vitamin C in melasma or photodamage, searching Medline, CENTRAL and Scopus to 12 May 2022, with risk of bias assessed using the Cochrane Collaboration tool in RevMan 5.0.

Key Findings

This systematic review searched Medline, CENTRAL and Scopus to 12 May 2022 and found seven randomised controlled trials of topical vitamin C in melasma or photodamaged skin, with only 139 volunteers in total. Studies measuring skin topography reported smoother, less wrinkled skin, supported by biopsy data, and objective pigmentation measures showed significant lightening of treated areas. Hydration improved equally in vitamin C and placebo-treated sites, a null result. Protocols combining vitamin C with Q-switched Nd:YAG laser appeared to enhance its effects.

Conclusions

Topical vitamin C may suit melasma and photoaging, but more studies are needed to confirm the ideal concentration.

Limitations

Only seven small trials totalling 139 people, no pooled statistical analysis, and no consensus on the ideal vitamin C concentration; the authors note noticeable change may require long-term use.