The effect of Salix alba L. bark extract on dark circles in vitro and in vivo

Jeon S

Published in International Journal of Cosmetic Science

Methodology

Combined in vitro assays of melanogenesis and inflammation plus an 8-week open human application study measuring infraorbital colour parameters instrumentally.

Key Findings

Salix alba (white willow) bark extract inhibited melanin synthesis and inflammatory markers in vitro, and in 29 volunteers an 8-week topical application modestly lightened infraorbital dark circles and improved skin brightness measurements versus baseline.

Conclusions

Willow bark extract shows preliminary promise as a topical for dark circles, but the small uncontrolled human phase means the effect could reflect moisturisation or measurement drift.

Limitations

Small single-arm in vivo component without a placebo-controlled parallel group, short 8-week follow-up, instrument-based endpoints with modest clinical relevance, and manufacturer involvement.